Kirkby Stephen to Keld

DAY 7 – FRIDAY 15 JUNE

MILEAGE: 10 MILES

Nothing new weather-wise, It was pouring it down.  Last year we had opted to miss out going to the Nine Standards because of my twisted ankle.  This time we were sabotaged by the weather, it was too wet for us to consider going across the moors and impossible to see anything so we opted for a quicker route.

Following the advice of the group walking east to west, we walked along the discontinued railway before turning off to walk up a very muddy path, eventually coming out onto a track by a house but unfortunately then couldn’t then see where the footpath went.  A new drive had been built up to the house making things a little confusing, when we referred to the map nothing seemed to correspond. A guy who had just parked his car at the house advised us to walk up the driveway, which would bring us out on the road to Keld.  It did.  By now it was really pouring down so we had no objections to taking the road all the way into Keld rather than heading across country.

We spotted a very wet looking couple ahead of us on the road; Ian and Barbara. They were pleased to have company for a bit to take their mind off the wind and rain.  They had walked all the way along the road from Kirkby Stephen and were going to Thwaite that evening, a little further on from Keld.  Yesterday they had walked from Orton and taking advantage of the camping barn, took shelter from the rain at Bent Farm to have their lunch.  Barbara was convinced that she had seen us walking past as she recognised our trekking poles and rucksacks. 

Before we set off this morning I had thought about buying some new water-proof gloves in Kirkby Stephen. We hadn't been expecting so much bad weather and my winter gloves were at home. The shop sold a brand called 'Sealskins' that were meant to be completely waterproof gloves, unfortunately they did not have them in my size and as they cost over £20, I decided not to get a bigger size and to do without. 

As I chatted to Barbara she mentioned that during the past week they had been using some gloves that were supposed to be totally waterproof, however their hands had still got wet, as the water dripped down the wrist while they were holding their trekking poles.  It looked like I had made the right decision not to buy them – though my hands felt so cold.

We battled along the road, rain lashing into our faces.  Battling against the wind, struggling to stay upright, it was definitely a battle against the elements. Kev pointed out  the path which we had taken last year to get back up on to the higher moorland route, but this year the path was non-existent as water was gushing down it.  We would definitely have to stick to the road,  particularly as we remembered that the route we used last year involving crossing a tricky stream, which we suspected following all this rain would be nearly impossible to cross.  The road was bad enough as the water came running down even this was like a river.

Two people walked past us heading in the opposite direction.  With a shock of recognition we realised it was the father and son campers we met in Shap – but they were going the wrong way – back to Kirkby Stephen – why????  We guessed that perhaps they were giving up.

A taxi went past, two faces peering out of the steamed up back window, this we later found out was an American mother and son who had decided to keep dry and move on to their next stop in the hope that the weather might change in the next few days.

I was getting colder and thinking longingly of my jumper which was in my rucksack – but how to get it out without getting wet?  Then suddenly a deserted cottage appeared that we could walk up to.  We had to wade through water to get there but at least it was shelter and I could put my jumper on.  Barbara and Ian soon followed us in.

After a quick snack we left them in the cottage, the rain still lashing down, Looking back we could see another walker making his way up the path to the cottage – it was proving to be a popular place.  The walker was Mr. Duncan who had abandoned his trek across the moors and headed back down to the road.

Continuing along the road we heard a little buggy beeping.  It was up on the hills.  On hearing the beeps, the sheep on all the surrounding moors started bleating and going mad,  running after the buggy.  It was obviously feeding time. 

A bit further on we came across a little gate with a sign 'Wainwright's falls' on it.  We went in and had a look, water was gushing down so fast and the noise from the roaring river was quite amazing.  Kev took various photos as the rain continued to pour down, such a shame that it was too wet to stop because we had plenty of time on our hands.

We arrived in Keld at about 1.30pm.  We were booked into Butt House with Doreen Whitehead and aware that she did not like guests arriving before 4pm headed for the teashop, where we found other refugees waiting.

Mr Duncan,who had shot past us as we struggled against the rain on the road earlier after his brief stop at the cottage.  There were 2 young girls, who were backpacking the Pennine Way, camping all the way.  We felt sorry for them having to camp in this weather. At another table were 2 Australian women who had also walked along the Pennine Way but were only doing the first section from Edale and this was their final day.  The Australians were also booked into Doreen’s having stayed there several years before when doing the C2C. 

After about an hour and many cups of tea, the rain still falling and holiday makers being advised to move their caravans because the river was breaking it's banks, the café owner volunteered to call Doreen to see if she was ready for us.  She sure was – with the bad weather she had been expecting us since 1.30pm!!!!  We let the Australians set off first and we followed about 10 minutes later.  It was so good to see Doreen and Ernest again.  Toddy, the little dog they were looking after last year because their son was seriously ill in hospital, ran up to greet us! At first we thought the worst but Doreen reassured us that her son was better, but that they were looking after Toddy permanently.

Doreen could not wait to ply us with more tea – her big chocolate cake – and massive scones.  In the customary manner we were sent up to our room with strict instructions to be down in the living room for cake and tea within 5 minutes.  We were slightly longer and opened the door to find Toddy waiting for us – he had been sent to get us.

The cakes and scones were fantastic. Gluten-free and hand made.  Doreen was waiting in the lounge expectantly, waiting for us to take a bite – and see our reaction. They did not disappoint, Doreen's baking was fantastic, once again taking great care to find a gluten free recipe in a magazine and said it had been so simple to make.

She took our orders for dinner and then stayed on to chat for a bit.  Butt House had been put on the market, they had had some interest but no firm offers.  Their intention was to finish at the end of August and then do the Coast to Coast themselves,  after looking after so many walkers they had decided to see what it was all about - not walking, she hastened to add, but ferrying some friends bags, and then only to Richmond, but she was looking forward to it.

If they did not sell Butt House they would continue next year, but only doing a minimum of 2-3 nighters.  With the old youth hostel having been sold and reopened as a hotel called Keld Lodge they hoped that it would provide people doing the Coast to Coast or Pennine Way somewhere to stay and they could retire and take a well earned rest.

We spent the afternoon in the bedroom listening to the radio and reading, before heading down to the living room for 7.15pm.  The 2 Australians and Mr Duncan were already there.  We were soon joined by another couple who were also doing the Pennine Way.  The woman was having a hard time 5 miles into the walk she had fallen, resulting in a bad gash on her face and hurting her arm.  She had managed to struggle on, as, she said she could hardly give up after only 5 miles and was now recovering.

Dinner was very pleasant and after coffee in the lounge and another long chat with Doreen we headed up to bed reflecting that last year it was at this point that the weather changed and we saw the sun again in the morning.

Kevanliz@aol.com