Blakey Ridge to Grosmont

DAY 13 – THURSDAY 21 JUNE

MILEAGE: 13.5 MILES

The ice pack had fortunately done its magic – although feeling sore I was able to walk on my ankle.  We woke up early and looking out at the fantastic view, the sun was shining on the hills behind the house and in the garden the rabbits were playing – looking so cute.

There were 2 couples at breakfast, who, yes you guessed, were also 'doing the C2C'.  On hearing that we were going to Grosmont, they exclaimed with a certain amount of glee and smugness “oh we are going further than you, we are heading to Glaisedale” and then proceeded to treat us with disdain as we were “ not going as far as them”. By now we were a little fed up with all the point scoring and just left them to believe what they wanted although they’d obviously not looked at their map.

The dog would only let us go after we had played with him. We were in no rush and enjoyed the chance just to do something different chatting away and playing ball with the dog as the others kitted up and headed off on their lengthy walk. Yes, the second time around we were doing things for ourselves and today we planned something different.

The C2C route goes 3 miles around the moor along the road.  On looking at the map we spotted a path that crossed the valley behind the house before joining the official route beyond the road section and decided to try that.  We set off, but managed to miss the path that we wanted.  On the moors with all the heather and sheep tracks you can be metres from the correct path and not be able to see it.  After deliberation we decided to stay on the path we were on.  It was going in the general direction we wanted heading down to a farm at the bottom of a valley – but which one, as there were 3 in near vicinity.  Fortunately a farmer soon put us right, calming our fears about some mean looking cows with new born calves in the field we had to go through, apparently they only get aggressive if you have a dog, he then took us over to see a cute little calf, the latest addition to the herd.

Although the path was a little boggy and difficult to follow it was good walking across the moors  – much better than the road route, the people we met along the way definitely weren't 'doing the C2C' , just walkers out enjoying the countryside, we felt independent and  that our route was more in keeping with the original intentions of the creator. I was also relieved that my ankle had started to ease. 

We rejoined the C2C path and headed down to Glaisdale, as we wouldn't be stopping here our assessment at breakfast being correct we would be going further. At Glaisedale a big group of walkers left the pub in front of us, just like when you want to get up an escalator on the underground only to be beaten to the first step by a group of Italian tourists who do not comprehend 'stand on the right'. Ok, we were taking a very relaxed attitude to the walk but entering the woods near Beggar’s Bridge, they were walking so slowly, it felt like we were going backwards.

Splashing through overflowing streams we soon overtook them and headed into Egton Bridge and over to Grosmont stopping at Hazelwood Teashop for a well earned cup of tea before heading off to watch the steam trains and find our guest house for the night, Grosmont House.  We eventually found it and as there was a sign saying accommodation available from 4pm and as it was only about 3.30pm we went and sat in the garden and enjoyed the sun.

The father and son we met the previous day at Wain Stones arrived, along with a woman pushing a pram. Ignoring the no entry before 4pm sign they went straight in, so we decided to follow a few minutes later. 

On the house sign was a picture of Chesterfield's Crooked Spire – what was their link with Chesterfield?  We found out at breakfast it had been a wedding present from some friends of the owners who, although they claimed to hate the place and service visited regularly and were from Chesterfield.

Grosmont House is an odd place.  It obviously used to be a very glamorous place but not anymore.  Now it looked very tired and dirty, grotty wallpaper and grimy floors, surprising then, on arrival to be asked to leave our boots and trekking poles in order not to dirty the floor or damage the furniture. But at least our room was big.  There was space to move about.

I went to have a shower – there was an empty shampoo bottle on the floor and shower scum on the glass – nice!  I dreaded to think the last time the bathroom had received a proper clean.

 We went out to book a table for dinner at the pub, The Station Tavern.  We had stayed here last year, and met up again with the American Girl, Todd and Yorkshire Guy.  They loved the campsite they were at.  We were soon joined by a big group of people who were also doing the Coast to Coast – including the bloke we had met outside Keld Lodge. The group became quite talkative – just as we were leaving.

Breakfast we had been informed was at 8.30am.  However looking at the dismay on our faces (we had been hoping for an early start), the hostess assured us that breakfast would actually be ready earlier – possibly by 8.15am. That 15 minutes could make all the difference!

Kevanliz@aol.com