Kirkland to Stonethwaite via Haystacks Day 2 Sunday 10 June 2007 Mileage: 16 miles

Our first proper day in the Lakes!  We woke to a blue sky – unlike last year, when we had rain most of the day,  today’s walk would be dry.

After breakfast (where Kev had to put up with a woman constantly sniffing next to him, making no attempt to blow her nose) we were soon booted up, saying goodbye to Helene and Tony.  It was back down the hill again to get into Ennerdale. Last year we took the route on the north side of Ennerdale, this time we would take the path along the South side.  A close examination of our map showed an alternative route from the Kirkland road  to the start of the path proper.  Eagerly turning off the road onto a small footpath, (leaving a fellow walker with a heavy pack to trudge on along the road) we crossed a small charming bridge over a stream and continued on, meeting a dog walker who commented that he rarely met any walkers using this path.   A big shame as it was gorgeous. 

The path finally led us to the shoreline of Ennerdale Water.  I suggested taking the high level path over Anglers Crag but as we were planning on tackling Haystacks later, Kev advised that we should take the path around the bottom which turned out to have a few good scrambles to warm us up for the afternoon climb up to Innominate Tarn. 

Pulling his cap out of his rucksack somehow Kev managed to tear the strap off. With the sun blazing down, he put it on, like a knotted handkerchief, doing a credible Norman Wisdom impression.  The views around Ennerdale Water were amazing.  All too soon we reached the traditional crossing point from the south bank to the north for those doing the C2C. Here we met the American girl and the Canadian couple. 

The Canadian couple seemed to be having problems. The descent down Dent the previous day had taken its toll, the guy had lost his toe-nails (ouch).  Reminding them that we were not following the book we continued along the path along the southern side of the water. 

The path went through a small clearing then a forest track continued past small lakes.  A number of tracks split away and it was difficult to tell which one to take.  We met up with a couple who looked like they were planning on going up Pillar which was to the right of us, so we were definitely not going to follow them!

Choosing a lower path we dropped down and crossed the river.  We were then back on the boring track on the northern side of the river.  It seemed to take ages to get to Black Sail Hut.  Looking at the map we realised that we had crossed the river too soon!!!! – and could have continued on the nice track to another footbridge further up the valley  before crossing over and rejoining the “book route”. 

To our surprise and disappointment Black Sail was locked.  We remembered how relieved we were last year to have been able to  have gone inside to shelter from a storm, luckily the weather was much better today.  Sitting outside looking forlorn was a bloke (Duncan) – it was the guy with the big backpack we had left trudging along the road earlier on.  He explained that he had pulled his knee from carrying his back pack.  He had also run out of water and had hoped to have been able to refill his water here.  Kev offered him some of his water.  This offer was gratefully accepted. Duncan shakily pulled himself up and shouldered his back pack and set off, with stereo/radio in hand!  Seeing him struggle we wondered if he would make it.  When we saw him pull up again after a few metres we realised that he would have big problems going over to Honister – what could we do to help?  Then we suddenly remembered our pain killing spray.  Grabbing it, Kev set off on a run and caught up with Duncan, who by this time had collapsed on a rock, rubbing his knee in agony.  Seeing him struggling with a heavy backpack brought back memories for Kev, who in 1981 had struggled alone for a few days in similar circumstances before having to give in.

Kev rejoined me by Black Sail Hut.  In the distance we could see a walker coming down the path from Ennerdale towards us, then suddenly disappear, perhaps it was our imagination.

After about 10 minutes we decided we were sufficiently refreshed to tackle the climb over to Honister and backtracked to reach the path rising up to Haystacks only to meet the American Girl walking back up the path, not at all happy with her C2C book which had either not really clearly described the route or omitted a recently erected gate and sent her down the wrong path to ford River Liza rather than up the track to Black Sail Hut. It must have been her that we had seen earlier on the correct path. By now she had left the Canadian couple as the guy was struggling with ripped off toe nails.  Less than two days into the walk we were witnessing people struggling badly.

After a quick chat we set off up the incline to Haystacks.  As we got higher we could see the paths along the ridges of  Red Pike and High Stile, it looked like a great ridge walk and definitely one to try in the future. 

The path up Haystacks involved plenty of scrambling which was great fun.  We were all too soon at Innominate Tarn, a very peaceful scene, where Alfred Wainwright ashes have been scattered. 

The Haystacks route is mentioned in most of the guide books as an alternative but they all seem to suggest avoiding the obvious path from Blackbeck Tarn down to Honister but to head over towards the Brandreth Fence and join the main route. Not quite sure why as the path is easy to find and leads you easily down the valley to Honister.

We then followed  tracks around the slate mines, arriving at the visitor's centre where last year we had arrived drenched to the skin and taken advantage of 'free' coffee as we dripped all over the floor.

Before diving into the cafe for a very welcome cup of coffee we noticed Duncan limping across the car park talking to a girl, who had obviously agreed to give him a lift somewhere.  We were relieved to know he had got across Loft Beck safely. 

The recent wet weather made the walk through Johnny’s Wood in Longthwaite interesting.  Part of the path was rather narrow and as the river was quite high we needed to make use of the chains at the side of the path. 

We had originally planned to go from Seatoller, up to Rosthwaite and then back down to Stonethwaite but as it was now about 5.30pm we decided to go for the quicker option and miss out Rosthwaite and walk straight to Stonethwaite.

We were booked into the Langstrath – a very charming inn. The room was nice, with an excellent bathroom which had a wonderful view across fields full of sheep and lakeland fells behind.

The food at the Langstrath is well renowned.  Unfortunately the only vegetarian/gluten free food they had was soup but it was very nice and fortunately filling.

We had our second sighting of the Scotsman who we had initially met on the bus travelling to St Bees at the start of the first day, Mr Paul Duncan.  He had the look of an uncompromising, purposeful, straight forward, speedy walker.  We hadn't seen him at all since he had stepped off the mini-bus and in the days to come we would only see him if we set off early and he walked past with a cheery greeting or at the end of the day - after he had already been settled into the pub with a pint for an hour.

Kevanliz@aol.com