Richmond to Danby Wiske

DAY 10 - MONDAY 18 JUNE

Breakfast was pleasant, if very quiet, no chatter around the dining room about who is going where. We must have looked like a couple of tramps in all our walking gear surrounded by expensive framed prints and well off guests reading The Times. it was nice to be having a civilised relaxing breakfast. As I put my hiking boots on outside the reception desk, the cleaner asked me where we were going and I explained that we were doing the C2C, 'oh, I hope you have a nice day for it, is it far?'  It was refreshing to be in an environment where, for once, none of the guests were also 'doing the C2C'

We took a slight diversion back into Richmond so that Kev could go shopping and our c2c free zone was broken. Outside the chemists was another walker, it is quite easy to spot them, but he was going East to West and being a big fan of of steam trains had spent a few days at Grosmont.

We took the path we found last year alongside the river instead of walking along a road, but getting so carried away we rushed past the point we should have turned off to head back up to the c2c footpath although we were rewarded by wonderful views from a bridge across the river and it wasn't too far to backtrack. 

The path went into a wood and along some stony steps, the ground was quite wet with mud and streams making the steps slippery, loosing my balance, I slipped and I crashed to the ground.  Fortunately no damage was done, even more fortunate Kev hadn’t noticed, so couldn’t turn to me with that “what are you doing now” face.

We came out at Colburn noticing 2 women sweeping away mud.  We found out later from Barbara and Ian that the mud had been up to their thighs from the flooding earlier in the week.  Thank gawd we were not walking through Richmond a few days earlier! 

The weather which had been quite cold up to now, changed it started to warm up, then became really hot and I was soon stripping off.  We caught up with Barbara and Ian and walked with them for a while. They had been persuaded to do the C2C as their 2 sons had completed the walk a couple of years before.

We were soon at the A1, crossing under the bridge to Catterick Bridge.  Looking at the river markers, it was easy to tell how high the waters had been and sad to realise that a young soldier had been swept away and died during the worst of the flooding a few days before.

We continued to Bolton-on-Swale taking a detour into the churchyard to find the monument to Henry Jenkins – a local man who died at the ripe old age of 169, before continuing on, walking through various fields.  We came across a house with a small plane in the garage!  One up on the neighbours! Nice one!   Barbara was looking very tired at this stage, so she and Ian decided to have a break.  We left them to have their lunch, deciding to continue as once again the sky was starting to look very threatening.

Approaching the outskirts of a farm,  Kev stopped to open a gate, suddenly a dog came running up out of nowhere diving out through the open gate and bounding along the path occasionally stopping to make sure we were still following him.  He obviously knew the way and we were expecting to see him get bored, turn round and eventually go home.  A couple of times he headed off in other directions making us think he might be going home only to reappear, bounding in front of us when he realised we were no longer following.  As we got closer to Danby Wiske we were unsure about what to do with the dog and hoping that it would turn back – but it didn’t. 

We stopped along a path through a wildlife trail that a local farmer had established, leaving a message for Barbara and Ian in a little book that had been left by a farmer for comments on the path that he had opened and found our comment from the previous year, it didn't seem that many others had noticed the book or bothered to make any comments. 

Arriving in Danby Wiske hoping the dog would turn off now, instead it jumped out in front of us and across the road, fortunately there were no cars passing as it shot straight out.  We took a diversion into the church, to see the three strange badly weathered figures above the main door still followed by the dog, perhaps we could lock him in the church?  At this rate he would be coming to the B&B with us!

Fortunately we passed an entrance to a farm, a van parked outside suggested that it was the local vet's and several people were walking to the gate including the  vet.  We explained what had happened and although they did not recognise the dog, said they would look after him and do a phone around to find out who it belonged to. The dog jumped over their gate, maybe thinking it would get more attention, but was quite displeased to be put on a lead and locked in a stable – he looked so disappointed as we left him (as did Kev, who I think had been secretly hoping that we could take him to Robin Hoods Bay with us).

The last time we entered Danby Wiske there had been signs advertising a tea shop at Ashford House.  We had been looking forward to going back – but this time there were no signs.  The reason why soon became clear – the White Swan was now opening in the afternoon rather than just evenings as had been the case the previous year and had asked the 'competition' to stop serving people..  We walked up to Ashford House to have a look just in case – but the veranda where the tables had once been was bare.

We made our way back to our guest house, The Old School House, where we were warmly greeted by Doreen and Frank.  I was spoilt by being given a box of gluten free ginger cookies to eat. Three Australian women and Mr Duncan were also staying there.  The Australians were already  in Doreen’s 'bad books' having arrived at 1.30pm, not giving her a chance to finish tidying up after the previous evenings guests. 

Doreen had kindly volunteered to cook for us, as the pub had very limited vegetarian options let alone gluten-free, and suggested cooking us vegetarian frittatas with minted potatoes – very nice!!!  Kev was looked after well, as Doreen gave him a glass of wine and happily kept topping it up for him. 

The phone rang – it was an American wanting to book a room for September.  At first Doreen said they had availability, but fortunately Frank who came in, double checked and realised that they were already fully booked, sounding disappointed Doreen apologised to the man, but said they had availability for the day later.  It seems that the walk is becoming more popular with walkers from Australia and the USA. A few minutes later the phone rang again, it was the American, he had juggled his itinerary so that he could now take the room.  The good reputation of the Old School House had gone across the ocean and he had to stay there!

After dinner and out of curiosity, just to see if it was as bad as last year,  we went to the White Swan where we were delighted to see Todd and American Girl.  They explained that after going to Orton last week to visit the chocolate factory they had decided not to go much further and stopped at Bent Farm Camping Barn - the weather was so lousy and then making up the lost time by deciding not to stop at Reeth.

They had teamed up with a guy from Yorkshire, who was now walking alone as the 2 guys he was originally backpacking with had decided to give up.   They were camping at the pub but not eating there as the prices were so expensive.  Todd had asked for a plate of chips but had been told that the pub did not do chips.  Just like they didn’t do dark rum either as there “was no demand for it”.  It was good to see Todd and American Girl had overcome the worst of the weather and were still enthusiastic about finishing. 

Barbara and Ian were also there.  They were staying at Ashfield House.  Confirming that the owner, Jean had decided not to open the tea shop as the pub had decided to open at lunchtime.

The pub owners had actually just sold the pub and were due to move out in October.  Lets hope the new owners improve the place.

We headed back to the Old School House.  Doreen was there with two of her friends. – one of them being Jean from Ashfield House – it was great to see her again.

Doreen invited us out into the garden with them for a chat and a gossip. The toaster was also in the garden.  Doreen explained that the candles she had lit for our evening meal had set fire to the toaster – oopss!!!!

It was really pleasant sitting in the garden on such a nice summers evening, all thoughts of the poor weather we had experienced quickly vanished.  Doreen and Frank were organising the village's annual scarecrow competition.  This was being held slightly later than last year’s so we wouldn’t be seeing any of the scarecrows this year as we walked through the village.  It was also an eye opener to listen to local village politics – rows over the “noise” from the village hall, and curiosity about who was walking past.

Too soon it was time for bed.

Kevanliz@aol.com